74 The Omen V+ 95m *
A L Wielochowski, 1981. Start at the third corner left of Ivory Corner. Climb a chimney for 4m and traverse left onto a juggy wall. Climb an arete (hard), move right and left, then follow arete to a stance (40m). Continue up arete to a ledge with twin cactus trees (20m). Surmount roof between the cacti, move up then left to arete and at spikes move further left (thin) for 3m. Make 2 moves up then go back right to lip of a roof; climb a crack then a wall and easy slab to the top; cactus belay (45m). Descent: Abseil from a tree 8m left of top.
75 Tusker IV+ 135m
A L Wielochowski, D McMullan, R Corkhill, 1981. Mainly grade III, a few moves of IV+. A beautiful climb. Start as for The Omen, climb easy rocks right of chimney till a passage leads to base of chimney in the 2nd corner left of Ivory Corner (20m). The chimney, mainly on right wall, to a slabby ledge on right (15m). Make an exposed traverse to the arete left (keep low) and go round this to ledge (15m). Move up and right to reach a spike on arete. From here climb left and up (hard) to reach a black slabby wall. After a few moves make a thin step right to a sandy ledge on arete (pitch 3 could be finished here in order to give the second a top rope on the traverse). Big holds now lead to a horizontal cleft (40m). Var: a rising traverse at the start of the 3rd pitch leads to spike on the arete which is climbed direct to the cleft (V-, better climbing). Now go over the bulge and follow nose till it steepens. Move right to a juggy wall and go straight up this; cross arete and climb slabs, keeping right where possible, to a commiphora tree at top of corner (45m). Descend in 2 long abseils from top of corner. |